My Journal of My Elliot Lake Vacation 2007

Originally published at my site (http://www.emma-o.net), August 4, 2007:


Well I go home tomorrow. I stayed an extra day to go camping at Cobre Lake (http://www.emma-o.net/Pix/CobreLake.jpg)with my friend Blake. It was great! Boy, today was quite the adventure for me! I want to write about that first.

I got up at 8AM to hike the Cobre Lake trail. It was really great! Last year Blake and I went about half-way around the trail. This year I was bound and determined to do the whole thing. It's 11 KM, going up Mount Belvedere (http://www.emma-o.net/Pix/CobreLake_morning5.jpg) and behind Cobre Lake, around Ten Fish Lake and Blue Sky Lake and back to Cobre. There are old, abandoned copper mines along the way. Near Cobre Lake you can find all kinds of old mining equipment in the bush, as well as an old log cabin, and a stone fireplace (http://www.emma-o.net/Pix/CobreLake_fireplace.jpg) from long ago. It really is a great trail, the best one (and most challenging) so far that I've hiked in the Elliot Lake area.

I started from camp and went in the direction of Mount Belvedere first. The trail is supposed to start in the opposite direction, but I have never been able to find the actual entrance. I figured it would take me about 6 hours to do, as most of my hikes are in the 10-12K range and it usually takes me that long to complete them. I figured if I left by 930AM I would be back by 330PM. So I made my tea and breakfast over the fire and got ready to go.

Blake was sleeping so I left him a note saying when to expect me back at camp. I headed off on my merry way, stopping every now and then to observe a squirrel, bird or to look up a mushroom in my mushroom field guide. It was a beautiful, pleasant day, and I just relished the serenity of being alone in the wilderness in the morning hours.

Since I never did the whole trail before, I didn't know exactly how long it would take me to complete it. Blake had to be back in town that evening, so I made sure to hustle a little bit and get back at a decent hour.

I started the steep ascent up Mount Belvedere, savouring the aerobic workout and gulping down deep breaths of oxygen. I sang and chanted, but after a little while I had to save my breath for the rocky climb up the hill.

I got to the top of Mount Belvedere and took in the view. Like last year, I was in total awe of the beauty of the hills and lakes around me. I was there, alone, and I had all that abundance to myself. It was my moment, and mine alone. That view, those images in my mind, are mine alone, and I can write about it and describe it in as much detail as possible, but you just can't understand this experience unless you've been up there too.

The wind sounds different up there. It whistles and howls and blows through the trees, and when you hear that sound, you know you are in the wild. That sound comes from the wind whistling through the trees...if I think hard enough I can remember just what that sounds like.

I love being up so high that you can see the shadows of the clouds on the trees below. The top of the hill consists of fairly smooth rock, trees and lots of blueberry bushes. There is no feeling like sitting down on that smooth rock, so high above the ground, and there is no other person in sight, anywhere...I didn't even hear a single plane out there.

After signing the guest book at the top of the mountain/hill, I began my descent down the hill and along the trail. I came across the familiar round, moss-covered rocks I saw last year. I remembered how they looked like strange, huge eggs or pods. I imagined wood nymphs, faeries and other creatures would hatch from them...

I reached a little marshy area that signals the start of Ten Fish Lake. Earlier on, Blake had run into an older man who said there was a really nice beach there. I told myself if I find that beach, I'm going skinny-dippin'!

I hiked along, and the trail alongside Ten Fish Lake was so beautiful. Sometimes you find certain trails, or parts of a trail that just have a certain something about them, something that makes them more beautiful and special than others. They have this magical quality to them, perhaps because they are so pure and pristine, untouched and unspoiled for thousands of years. This part of the trail is like that for me. I just love finding lakes and ponds that are tucked away in the wilderness, and are inaccessible unless you hike in. They are so quiet, serene and still. This part of Ten Fish is like that...it's a bit marshy, and the trail runs along the top of rock close to the water, and through pine trees. It then goes over some smooth rock. I love these rock patches because they just open up the bush. The sun comes in and warms everything up, releasing the yummy scent of pine, berries, leaves, wild roses and foliage.

Anyway, I did find the beach, and yes it was beautiful. Spring-fed lake, trees all around, narrow beach trimming the shoreline in a gentle arc. There was not a single human soul in sight. It was a gorgeous sunny day, about +24 Celsius. I took off all my clothes and went in!

I always wondered why people said skinny-dipping felt so great. Now I know. I always wondered what difference did it make if you wore a bikini or nothing, but once I was in there, I realized that those 2 small scraps of material really do prevent you from enjoying the experience of having the cool, clean water caressing every square inch of your skin. I came out feeling reborn! It was wonderful, magical and a moment I will never forget. I had that gorgeous lake all to myself. I just can't describe the feeling of being that far into the bush and swimming in that lake, tucked away from civilization. Cobre Lake itself is about 50K from Elliot Lake (I think so anyway. I know it's kinda far), and then to hike an extra 10K or so into the woods really makes you feel like you are in the MIDDLE OF NOWHERE! And there is no place I'd rather be!

After my quick dip, I got dressed and continued onwards, and discovered that Ten Fish is a pretty big lake. The trail went all along the lake. It was pretty mundane from the beach forward, compared to the rest of the trail. I walked and walked and walked, until I finally neared Blue Sky Lake.

The trail leading up to it goes through this really gorgeous patch of super-tall red and white pines. You look up and all you see are these great giants reaching for the sky. I've seen this type of forest from afar, while on the road, and they always looked so inviting. I always wanted to walk through them, and I finally did. I wish I took pictures, but I ran out of film!

Blue Sky Lake was pretty, but not spectacular, and there wasn't anything really "special" about it. There was a nice, square, flat rock that jutted out into the water that was perfect for sitting, resting and relaxing. I didn't stop to rest though, because I knew I was nearing the last bit of the trail and just wanted to finish it. The trail again went up a hill. There are supposed to be abandoned mines in the area, but I didn't see them. I saw blue markers that I think indicated where they're located, but I didn't take the time to look. By that time, after all that climbing, I was tired. It was a long, grueling trail and I was eager to get back to camp in time. So when I finally saw Cobre Lake again, I was happy and excited!

There is always a feeling of accomplishment whenever I complete a challenging trail, or get to the top of a big hill. I have always believed hiking is a metaphor for life. If you sweat and toil and push yourself, you'll get to the top and be rewarded with a nice view, and a great feeling. Or you can take the easy way and not challenge yourself. Sure, you won't sweat or feel pain, but you'll also never touch the sky.

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So there I am, following the trail, I can see camp directly across the lake, when I come across the trail markers. (The trails are marked with arrows.) There are arrows on both sides of the tree, facing either direction. The arrow facing me was broken, but I could see a clear path through the bush. Also, judging by the position of the nails in the tree, I could see where the arrow was hammered in. But the strange thing was, the arrow's position was towards the opposite of the trail. I looked where it was originally pointing. No trail, only a hill reaching up and up. So I figured the trail has gotta be THE trail. I follow it and it goes right along the edge of Cobre Lake. I go over some rocks and through brush and dead trees, when suddenly the trail just stops. All that's before me is a huge tangle of dead trees. I couldn't see how a trail could possibly go through there. It was very strange.

So I figured the original positioning of the arrow was correct after all. I turn around and go back out the trail back to the markers. I look all around where the arrow was originally pointing. No trail. I start thinking, "What the f***"! I couldn't see how there could be a possible trail there either. I climb up the hill a bit, but I don't see a trail anywhere. Strange. So I figured the trail I just went down had to be the right way...any other way I was either going to go through the lake, or back from where I came, or up the big hill. And I didn't see a trail ANYWHERE going up that hill.

So I check out the trail again. There is no way I can get through that brush. I start cursing and swearing at the people who broke and/or didn't mark the trail and/or maintain the trail properly. I knew what my choices were -- a) to either go up the hill and try to find the trail, or b) go in the water and follow the water's edge to the beachy area of Cobre Lake I can see just off to my left, or c) go aaaallllll the way back the same way I came, which I definitely did NOT want to do!!!

So I go up, up, up the hill, thinking that as long as I can see the lake I'm ok. Problem was, the lake kept getting further and further away and I was getting higher and higher up the hill, and no trail was in sight. It's funny how from the bottom you can see perfectly cleared-out trail-like ledges, but when you get up there, it looks the same as it does down at the bottom. I decide then and there that I am NOT going to get lost out there, and head back down the hill. It's also funny how you think you will recognize the same trees and rocks going down that you used climbing up, but nope. I usually use trail tape to mark my way, but I didn't think I'd veer off that far (funny how that happens too) and wouldn't need it. But I made it down and for a few seconds I realized I had no idea where the trail was (because I didn't come down in the same place as going up). But I did find it and found myself at the water's edge.

It didn't look too deep, and Cobre Lake is a clean lake, spring-fed like the others. The rocks didn't look slippery. They're not all covered in algae like they are down in Toronto in Lake Ontario. I knew the water was warm too. Plus I had my water shoes. So I decided to try walking along the water's edge, until I got to the beach which was probably less than a 1/4 km from me. I put my water shoes on, rolled up my cargo pants and stepped in the water.

The rocks were a bit slippery, but there were plenty of twigs and branches to hold on to. I walked about 4 steps before I was hip-deep in the water. It was crystal-clear. It didn't look that deep from the shore, but water can be very tricky like that sometimes. But I decided to just give a try and see how it goes.

I didn't anticipate the big, dead trees along the edge, and how far they jutted out. I tried to maneuver around one, only to have the pointy branches get in my face. A twig found its way under my glasses and pulled them off my face and into the water. That moment is a horrifying moment from my darkest nightmares. lol. Seriously, because I am so blind without my glasses. For a brief moment I thought, "Well at least I have my contact lenses." But I had to get my glasses back. I reached into the water and felt around the rocks for a few horrible moments. Finally my hands grasped them and I pulled them out. They were fine, thank God/dess. If I did not find my glasses, I would have been toast. It was a bit scary, being in that wild water all by myself with no glasses. At that point I decided that this was NOT the way to get out of there and I turned around and got out of that lake. I knew my only option was to turn around and walk aaaaalllll the way back, the whole 9 km or so. Oh yeah, you better believe I was cursing and swearing at that point! lol Just the frustration of knowing how tough that trail was (and doubly so because I walked a bit fast) and that I had to do it all over again

And it turned out I didn't have my contacts with me after all.

So I decided, "I'm screwed", and since camp is right across the lake, I should holler for Blake. I figured, if we could hear the loons clear across the lake and the next lake over, he should be able to hear me scream his name. Which is what I proceeded to do, as well as blow my whistle that I always keep in my back pack. I figured, maybe he'd hear me and come down the trail looking for me, and maybe direct me to where the trail connects, if it connects. Unbeknownst to me, Blake had gone to nearby Laurentian Lodge for a coffee and wasn't at camp to hear my hollering.

I knew I had to get back, so I got in tunnel-vision mode and just told myself about the task at hand, and thanked the Gods that I am as fit as I am, as as healthy as I am. I just had to keep reminding myself of my strength, stamina and endurance. I would say to myself in my mind, "It's ok, you're strong, you can do it." I've walked 18 km before, which is what I was looking at. But I had never hiked 18 km of steep hills, over and around boulders, fallen trees and rotting logs, plus crossing a small river on rickety logs, going up and down and around rocky terrain, through mud, twigs and bush.

I was only about 2 km from the end of the trail when I had to turn back. You can't imagine my frustration! So close to camp, but so far. But I just put myself in that "zone" and plowed away. I realized I probably wouldn't make it back until about 630 PM or so. Thank God/dess that I had left early in the day too.

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I made my long, gruelling way back. I panted along, feet wet, thirsty, sore, sweaty, hungry and tired. I almost sprained my ankle 4 times because of my wet, soggy shoes going over rock. I finally said, "Fuck it." And put my running-type shoes on. They're really comfortable, but the heels are all ripped. But I couldn't risk getting a sprained ankle out there.

I was dehydrated, even though I already drank almost 2 L of water. I knew I was gonna run out, so I made myself conserve my water until I got to Ten Fish Lake, where I could refill my water bottle from the lake. The water is safe to drink in all the lakes out there, because they are so clean.

When I got to Ten Fish I felt so relieved. I was about half-way to camp. I drank my water, and refilled my bottle. I considered going for another dip because I was so hot and sweaty. But I was so determined to get back that I couldn't stop for any length of time. I didn't eat, even though I was hungry. I didn't want to get cramps, plus I find I am faster and feel lighter when I exercise on a slightly empty stomach. I did eat breakfast, but it was easily 3 PM at that point.

It was the toughest workout of my life. I had to stop a few times to give my heart a chance to slow down. I'm a fit person and everything, but even for me, going back all that way was a workout and a half. My legs were killing me, especially my thigh muscles, due to all the climbing. I couldn't help but wonder what an average person would do...how could they make it back, if they were in maybe half as good of shape as I'm in? They would not make it.

Oh, and did I mention I was in bear country?? Yeah, a lot of bear poo everywhere. I began to worry that my sweat and heavy breathing would attract an animal that thought I was injured or something...

Every now and again I called out and whistled to Blake, just in case he did hear me and was looking for me, For all he knew, I could have been injured or attacked by a bear or something. So by calling and blowing my whistle, he could hear that I was moving and ok, and that I just needed his help. But he never heard me.

When I got to the top of Mount Belvedere again, I just sat on the rock and ate a small handful of raw sunflower seeds. Raw sunflower seeds are an excellent hiking and wilderness food because they are nutrient-rich and dense in protein. They fill you up, nourish you and give you energy. But I could eat only a small handful.

The way down was tortuous and scary, because the slope was very steep, and narrow and littered with loose rock. You have to watch every step. My thighs were jittering and aching as I made the slow descent. But somehow I made it.

It was about 2 km from the bottom of the mountain to camp. I was almost there...When I neared camp, I began hollering for Blake again. But he never heard me or came to get me.

I got to camp. Finally. It was 5 PM, and I was back well ahead of time. I could have slowed down out there, but I was just so focussed on getting back. I had to make it out, had to...

I realized Blake wasn't there. The car was there, everything was there. I thought, "Oh my God, he's out there looking for me." And he is not in nearly as good shape as I'm in. I began to worry about him, and to hope that he was not way the hell out there looking for me. I shouted his name. No response. I did it again a minute later. Nothing. A third time, and I hear "Yo!". Relief. I am so glad he's nearby. OMG, what a disaster the whole thing could have been, with the glasses incident and him going off in the bush looking for me, and the whole thing. He gets back to camp and I tell him the whole story. My body was trembling all over and I was craving regular water. It took me a long time to calm down. I felt like the whole thing was just horrible. In my whole life I have never physically exerted myself so much that I felt sick.

But you know what? After about an hour or two of relaxing, pigging out and drinking bottled water, I began to feel good. I began to laugh at my experience, and knew that it was a good one, no matter what. It was an adventure all right, one I'll remember and think about regularly. It'll inspire me and uplift me, make me smile, and give me a confidence boost when I need it. I proved a few things and I learned a few things too. I learned something about Nature -- that it might be beautiful, but it can be damn cold too. When I was in my predicament, it showed no sympathy, nor did it lend a helping hand. Nature just is. It's not a bad thing, it just is. When you are out there, you're enveloped by it and it can swallow you whole.

But I learned a few things about myself too -- that I can keep my wits about me in an unpredictable situation, especially if I'm way out in the woods. And that I have a strong survival instinct and can get myself out of a predicament. I did feel that initial buzz of panic when I realized I couldn't find the trail and knew that I'd probably have to walk all the back, or go in the water. I really wasn't sure if I could do it...well, I knew I could (I had to), but what if I couldn't?

I also learned to keep my books and writing paper wrapped in plastic in my back pack. (Which I did, but not securely enough and my field guides got wet.) And to always keep a spare pair of contacts in my back pack.

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I can't wait to hike the Cobre Lake trail again next summer!!!
But this time I'm gonna start from the opposite side of the lake...and see if I can find where the trail connects!